San Sebastian, Donostia in Basque (the official city name is Donostia-San Sebastián), is the capital of Spain’s Gipuzkoa province in Basque Country. Founded in 1180, it’s situated on the southeastern coast of the Bay of Biscay, where the Urumea River flows into the sea. Just 12 miles from the French border, the city is home to about 187,000 people and is renowned for its rich culinary scene. It boasts one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants per square meter globally.

Bar hop through the city center or have a drink by the sea, there are a million ways to experience pintxos (small finger foods) – from gildas to gabardinas to anchovies dishes and the famous txuleta. It’s known for its seasonal ingredients and the unique Txacoli wine, as well as its bevy of Michelin stars. One of the best things to do in San Sebastian is stroll through the charming city, bisected by the Urumea River, taking in landmarks like the Kursaal Palace, Victoria Eugenia Theatre and Museo San Telmo, which showcases the city’s cultural heritage. Art is everywhere here, embodied in sculptures by local artists like Chillida’s Peine de Los Vientos, Oteyza’s Empty Construction and Cristina Iglesias’s Hondalea. Donostia also hosts major cultural events, such as the San Sebastian Jazz Festival (Jazzaldia, the longest continuously running jazz festival in Europe, held every summer) or the San Sebastian International Film Festival in September.

The best time to visit San Sebastian is March through November, when the weather is consistently pleasant. Summer is packed and sunny, but the city makes up for that with its vibrant energy and a ton of cultural events. Expect higher rates at hotels, however.

San Sebastian is known for its wide variety of pintxos, which are small dishes crafted with a few ingredients. It’s common to find pintxos made from olives, anchovies and pickled peppers (gilda), as well as bites featuring grilled shrimp or meat, charcuterie and seasonal vegetables. Grilled foods are an important part of the local cuisine, like the popular (and mouthwatering) txuleta chops and fish like hake cod. When it comes to dessert, San Sebastian cheesecake has taken the world by storm for good reason, it’s utterly decadent and creamy.

Spain is a part of the Schengen Area. This means that U.S. citizens may enter Spain for up to 90 days for tourism or business without a visa. Your passport should be valid for at least three months beyond the period of stay.

The weather in San Sebastian is moody. Rain and wind are a part of Basque Country. But summers are hot and humid, with temperatures hitting the high 90s. Cooler evenings prevail, and the city doesn’t become stifling. Winters are mildly chilly, though often rainy, with temperatures rarely dropping below 32 ºF.

In San Sebastian, prices vary with the season and during major events like Zinemaldi or Jazzaldi. Generally, it’s not as budget-friendly as other Spanish cities, but cheaper than big cities in the United States. Expect to pay around €1.75 for a coffee and between €2.5-4 for a glass of wine. Pintxos range from €2.5-6, while a normal dinner averages €15-20. Accommodation costs also vary. A room for two in a 3-star hotel can be anywhere from €60-120, but the price can soar to €200 during peak times, like in August.

San Sebastian is a safe and welcoming city. It’s a great place for walking around or biking at any time of day and in any location, and public transportation is safe as well.

San Sebastian is a small city. Staying in the center makes everything more practical, as many of its main attractions are within walking distance. If you base yourself downtown, you get to see the best of what the city has to offer, but it can also be crowded, loud and busy. The best place to stay in San Sebastian for first-timers and families is around La Concha Beach or the cathedral, though prices here are higher. A neighborhood like Gros is also a good alternative.

Basque Country’s vaccination rate is around 86.69%. Masks are only required to enter clinics and hospitals.

San Sebastian is well connected, and has a small airport about 12 miles from the city center easy to reach by bus or taxi. There are no direct flights from the United States to San Sebastian, but you can easily transfer from cities like Madrid or Barcelona. Another option is to fly in and out of Bilbao, which is just over an hour from San Sebastian’s city center. The airport in Biarritz (France) is also only a 40-minute bus ride.

San Sebastian has a very diverse and dynamic culinary scene, with options that go from traditional to trendy. They are all typically discreet, small establishments, focused on what they each have best to offer. In the city center we recommend Casa Urola, Borda Berri or Gambara; Bodega Donostiarra or Bar Ricardo in Gros; as well as Muka, Geralds and Manojo, and asadores (grill houses) like Portuetxe.

San Sebastian offers visitors three beaches, all within walking distance of each other. There is Zurreola, ideal for surfing; La Concha, which has calm waters for swimming and sunbathing, and mainly frequented by families; and Hondarreta Beach, where all kinds of folks go for swimming or rowing.

San Sebastian is a fun city with much to do – and eat – for children of any age. Walking around with a stroller or with kids is not a problem. You can find kid-friendly parks dotted all over the city, as well as attractions specifically for kids. These include the ferris wheel, carousel, aquarium and Monte Igueldo amusement park.