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Osaka
Osaka's culinary record
In a fairly formal and reserved country, Osaka feels funky and laidback. That is reflected in the endless options for a quick delicious bite, but it’s the people, Osakans, who set the stage, and they are boisterous welcoming hosts. Belly up to a standing bar or settle into a tiny izakaya and you can expect to be engaged. For us, that always elevates the culinary experience to a higher level.
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Explore Osaka
Osaka
Osaka Station City: Where to Find the Best Underground Eats
The bustling Umeda district is the unofficial downtown of Osaka, and new visitors to the city might be surprised to find that much of it is underground, in the form of “Osaka Station City,” the nickname for the one-square-mile subterranean metropolis that connects to all major trains in the area. One could spend a whole day here without seeing sunlight! But avoiding the rays isn’t the charm of this spot – it’s the food scene. Here are some of our picks for the best places to eat in Osaka Station City.
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Morning, Noon, Night: A Perfect Day of Eating in Osaka
Editor’s Note: Award-winning author and journalist La Carmina writes about travel, culture and food (especially in Japan) for Travel + Leisure, The New York Times, National Geographic, CNN, Time Magazine, Eater, Fodor's, Observer, Business Insider, Sunday Times, AFAR, and others. She runs the leading Japan alt culture/travel/fashion La Carmina Blog and won "Best Blog of the Year" from Auxiliary Magazine. We asked her to share her perfect day of eating in Osaka and the spots she’d hit for bites and drinks from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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First Stop: Bjorn Heiberg’s Osaka
Let me first say that Japan hit me very hard when I first arrived because I did not speak the language. I was not a pork eater at the time (I grew up on a farm and pigs were my pets, not dinner) but after my first two weeks in Japan all I was eating was basically breaded pork chops, because that's the only thing I knew how to order in Japanese. You eat or you starve. And when it gets to that point, it's just being able to order that’s the first barrier.
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Exploring Osaka by Night
Osaka may be especially well known for its bright and busy Dotonburi district, but that same vibrancy is easily found all over the city, both in the people and urban scenery. It’s the same when it comes to the city’s nightlife, with no shortage of local eateries and street vendors to experience – places that are similarly appealing to photograph as well as step inside – whether it be a sit-down restaurant, a standing bar, or simply a spot to grab a quick snack when on the go. There is something special about wandering Osaka at night and seeing it come to life, including hidden gems that may have been easily overlooked in the daylight. Locations that are made all the more memorable by the people who own and frequent them, as the general stereotype of Osaka natives being friendly and open invariably rings true, meaning eating spots are as convivial as they are colorful. It’s a combination that makes each and every night out in Osaka a fun and varied one.
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Your Questions, Answered
Currently, there are no mask mandates or specific COVID-19 mandates in place in Osaka.
While Osaka itself isn’t known for its beaches, you can easily access nearby coastal areas like Suma Beach and Nishikinohama Beach, an hour away by train.
While Japan is becoming increasingly accessible, with improved infrastructure at many train stations and tourist attractions, navigating some of Osaka’s older neighborhoods with narrow streets and uneven surfaces may present challenges. It’s always wise to check accessibility information in advance.
For first-time visitors, the Namba and Umeda areas offer convenient access to major attractions and transportation hubs. If you’re seeking a more local vibe, consider staying in the Shinsekai district, known for its retro atmosphere and kushikatsu (skewer) restaurants.
American citizens can generally enter Japan visa-free for tourism purposes for up to 90 days.
Osaka sits in Japan’s Kansai region, on the island of Honshu. Historically a merchant city, Osaka’s position on the Yodo River and Osaka Bay has played a big factor in shaping its identity. Think of it as Japan’s pantry – a place where kuidaore (“eating oneself bankrupt” or, more colloquially, “eat until you drop”) is a badge of honor.
Beyond the obvious – diving headfirst into the city’s well-known street food scene – you can lose yourself in the glittery maze Dotonbori or find tranquility in the serene Sumiyoshi Taisha shrine, one of the oldest in Japan. For a taste of the contemporary, explore the trendy boutiques and galleries of the Amerikamura district.
Osaka is a great year-round destination, but spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) is when the weather is most reliably pleasant. Spring brings cherry blossoms and autumn is painted in red and gold – this can mean more tourists, but it also makes for some unforgettably spectacular foliage.
Osaka’s got four distinct seasons. Summers are hot and humid; winters are fairly mild. Be prepared for the rainy season in June and July, and occasional typhoons in late summer and early autumn.
Osaka can be surprisingly affordable, especially when compared to its big sister Tokyo. While high-end dining and accommodation options abound, there are plenty of budget-friendly alternatives. From affordable izakayas (pubs) to delicious street food, you can easily eat well on the cheap.
Osaka has a low crime rate and is considered quite safe. As with any major city, it’s always wise to be mindful of your belongings and surroundings, especially in crowded areas.
Kansai International Airport (KIX) serves as the main gateway to Osaka, with direct flights from many international destinations. If you’re already in Japan, the shinkansen (bullet train) offers a swift (2.5-3.5 hours) and scenic journey from Tokyo.
Known as “Japan’s kitchen,” Osaka has a lot going on culinarily. Start with the iconic takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savory pancakes), and get ready for a diverse array of offerings, from family-run tachinomi (standing bars) to Michelin-starred restaurants.
Our favorite restaurants in Osaka range from hole-in-the-wall ramen joints to Michelin-starred sushi places. Right now, we’re obsessed with Takoyaki Shop, which you can read about in our piece on exploring Osaka by night.
A family-friendly city, Osaka has plenty to offer young travelers. There’s interactive exhibits at the Osaka Science Museum and even Universal Studios Japan. It can get crowded, so consider basing your family in areas like Namba or Umeda, which offer wider streets and better pedestrian infrastructure.