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Fully taking in the complexity — and charm — of Exarchia requires diving into its backstreets. On this day filled with bites, sips and illuminating stops, we’ll do just that, tracing the evolution of the neighborhood through its food culture. Before the central Athens neighborhood of Exarchia became the utopian social experiment and hotbed of political activism that it is today, the area was the equivalent of a college town nestled into the middle of the city. Flanked by the University of Athens and the Polytechnic Institute, Exarchia developed quickly throughout the 20th century as a magnet for students and professors from all over Greece. Cafe culture thrived and a wide range of eateries opened — from student-friendly street food to private dining clubs for academics — to satisfy the diverse cravings of this new educated class. Over the decades, artists, writers, musicians and activists were also drawn to Exarchia, which in the late 20th century was the stage of some defining moments in Greek political activism, solidifying the neighborhood’s reputation as a self-governing, DIY and bohemian oasis in the middle of the city. On this tour, we’ll visit an old-school pastry shop opened in 1915 and a classic delicatessen for a tasting of products from the Mani region — olives, halva, honey and other artisanal products. We’ll have delicious rustic savory pies like the ones mothers from all over the country send to their children when they are away in college. We’ll visit a diner serving traditional specialties not usually found outside of Greek homes. In view of some of the city’s most famous political street art, we’ll stop for a series of meze at an ouzeri frequented by community organizers. Along the way, we’ll visit a number of spots that local activists had “taken over” to better serve the community, including a park like no other. There will also be an epic souvlaki tasting, a special bite at a Cretan canteen and, at an underground cellar, a wine tasting focused on native grape varieties and a final digestif of tsipouro from a distillery in northern Greece’s pastoral Tyrnavos mountains. As night falls and the bars begin to buzz, you can head home with a deep understanding of Athens’ most complex and exciting neighborhood. Or, like us, you may also find yourself caught up in the spirit of Exarchia, sticking around for one more round (or two) with locals.
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