About
Any attempt to fully appreciate Tokyo, a megacity of more than 20 million people, and its food scene — one that is simultaneously deeply-rooted and constantly changing — is a foolhardy mission. Before you’ve set your chopsticks down, a new trend is already taking shape just around the corner. But there are parts of greater Tokyo where the rhythm of daily culinary life is more accessible. From old specialty shops to modern department store food courts, in these neighborhoods the traditions and the communities they nurture are still identifiable. Welcome, then, to Kichijoji, small town Tokyo, where food-focused rituals unfold everyday in the shopping streets, drinking alleys and leafy parks that surround the train station. Our food tour in this quintessential Tokyo neighborhood begins at a depachika to experience one of Tokyo’s incredible department store food halls, where food pays tribute to both tradition and the newest trends. Making our way past highly prized pickles, fruit fit for a king and the aisle of Japanese junk food, we arrive at the sushi bar of choice among locals. Along Kichijoji’s bustling shotengai shopping street, we’ll rub elbows with locals as they shop for daily needs, learning about the basics of Japanese cuisine and tasting some of them, such as skewers of yakitori and octopus balls prepared and served street-side. We’ll meet three generations of a family of artisanal senbei makers working side by side in their tiny shop and atelier and, further down the road, we’ll visit a restaurant dedicated entirely to miso. We’ll sample unusual food rarely served outside Japan, such as sake infused with the fin of fugu, the famous puffer fish, plus expertly-crafted old standbys like tea and sweets. Our time in Kichijoji ends at the living room of the neighborhood, a traditional yokocho drinking alley to sample sake or beer and bar snacks at an izakaya, or Japanese gastropub, designed by a modernist architect. Here we’ll be joining locals in a tradition that, though nostalgic, is as of-the-moment as it’s ever been.
Read More