The Granita Magician

Come summertime, Carmine, a street vendor for all seasons, prepares refreshing granita on Via dei Tribunali in Naples. The semi-frozen dessert made from sugar, water and various flavorings, counters the oppressive heat. Don’t leave before exchanging a few words with Carmine, who is renowned for his ability to strike up a conversation with anyone.

Moka Mornings in Naples

An espresso coffee is an integral part of most Neapolitans’ morning routine. We start off our walk with a (small) cup of this potent brew and sfogliatella, a pastry first created in a Catholic convent near Naples.

I Saw the Sign

The handywork of Pasquale De Stefano, better known as Pasquale ‘o nummararo, “the number man,” can be seen all over Naples. His signs, which he hand paints on wooden boards with ancient paintbrushes, are used by food businesses and fruit and vegetable vendors across the city. On our Naples walk, we visit his workshop to chat with the master himself.

Colorful Displays on Naples' Old Market Streets

On our Naples walk we plunge into the bustling market streets, which is where we spied this colorful meat stand adorned with signs made by the city’s last traditional sign painter. Shopkeepers, bakers, olive sorters and vendors are all part of the market’s warm community, into which we are so kindly welcomed.

Coffee Accoutrements in Naples

Throughout Italy, Naples is known as the “city of coffee” – the Neapolitan caffè is synonymous with high-quality brew. And drinking coffee in the city is a true ritual, a complex set of unwritten norms, customs and ancient habits. We spotted some coffee paraphernalia, such as the ubiquitous moka pot, on our Naples culinary walk.

A Paradise of Fried Foods

There’s a saying in Naples: “Anything fried is good, even the soles of shoes.” So it’s no surprise that we stop for some fried goodies on our Naples culinary walk. Our favorites are the panzerotti, soft potato croquettes filled with salami and mozzarella, and the arancini, golden and crispy rice balls.

The Business of Limoncello

Roaming the narrow cobblestoned alleys of Centro Storico in Naples, we visit a limoncello production lab in a most unusual place. The dazzling bright yellow drink, most often served chilled, is particularly welcome on a hot summer day.