About
In Lisbon’s historic neighborhoods of Mouraria, Graça and Santa Clara, where scenic little streets spread out, web-like, in the shadows of architectural monuments from Lisbon’s glory days, the smell of change (and, of course, garlic) is in the air. These days, many old buildings are rapidly being restored here, immigrant communities are sinking roots and new restaurants are opening, giving this vibrant area yet another layer of depth. On this afternoon food tour in Lisbon, we will be exploring – bite by bite – these neighborhoods and the food that reflects their singular spirit. We’ll be paying particular attention to local tascas, small neighborhood restaurants that are part tavern, part diner, part cafe and fully essential to local life. In these cozy, one-of-a-kind places, the pulse of the neighborhood is strong and the local flavors held dear are protected under careful watch. But we’ll also drop into new wave seafood spots updating classic dishes and old-school taverns stubbornly holding on to their cherished recipes, as we go in search of this enticing district’s taste of both tradition and change. We’ll begin with the daily specials at a decades-old tasca, a quintessential Lisbon experience, in the heart of an area that’s home to a bustling twice-weekly flea market. Up the hill from there, we’ll visit a new school taberna where the chef/owner applies innovative techniques to the fish and seafood traditions of Portugal. As we continue our walk, we’ll get a taste of (when in season) spanking fresh clams at a Portuguese-style beer hall and the famous prego steak sandwich at a workingman’s lunch counter. Along the way, we’ll get a chance to sample house-made piripiri, a hot sauce that made its way to Lisbon from West Africa; garum, a fish-based condiment that has been produced in Portugal since Roman times, and several other saucy bites. We’ll stop by a 16th-century former monastery, now a museum, for a relaxing bite of something sweet in the cloister, while at a nearby wine bar we will sit down for a tasting of some fine local vintages. Our odyssey will finish up at a historic palace, today home to a local neighborhood association, where we will have a sip of chilled muscatel while enjoying something that thankfully remains unchanged – the timeless view of the sun setting behind the São Jorge castle on the hill. *Note: on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the tour will include a walk through the lively flea market, Feira da Ladra.
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