The bustling Umeda district is the unofficial downtown of Osaka, and new visitors to the city might be surprised to find that much of it is underground, in the form of “Osaka Station City,” the nickname for the one-square-mile subterranean metropolis that connects to all major trains in the area. One could spend a whole day here without seeing sunlight! But avoiding the rays isn’t the charm of this spot – it’s the food scene. Here are some of our picks for the best places to eat in Osaka Station City.

Let me first say that Japan hit me very hard when I first arrived because I did not speak the language. I was not a pork eater at the time (I grew up on a farm and pigs were my pets, not dinner) but after my first two weeks in Japan all I was eating was basically breaded pork chops, because that's the only thing I knew how to order in Japanese. You eat or you starve. And when it gets to that point, it's just being able to order that’s the first barrier.

Osaka may be especially well known for its bright and busy Dotonburi district, but that same vibrancy is easily found all over the city, both in the people and urban scenery. It’s the same when it comes to the city’s nightlife, with no shortage of local eateries and street vendors to experience – places that are similarly appealing to photograph as well as step inside – whether it be a sit-down restaurant, a standing bar, or simply a spot to grab a quick snack when on the go. There is something special about wandering Osaka at night and seeing it come to life, including hidden gems that may have been easily overlooked in the daylight. Locations that are made all the more memorable by the people who own and frequent them, as the general stereotype of Osaka natives being friendly and open invariably rings true, meaning eating spots are as convivial as they are colorful. It’s a combination that makes each and every night out in Osaka a fun and varied one.

Editor’s Note: Award-winning author and journalist La Carmina writes about travel, culture and food (especially in Japan) for Travel + Leisure, The New York Times, National Geographic, CNN, Time Magazine, Eater, Fodor's, Observer, Business Insider, Sunday Times, AFAR, and others. She runs the leading Japan alt culture/travel/fashion La Carmina Blog and won "Best Blog of the Year" from Auxiliary Magazine. We asked her to share her perfect day of eating in Osaka and the spots she’d hit for bites and drinks from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

On our culinary walk of Osaka, we taste our way through the historic merchant district of Kitahama to Kuromon Market to the lively entertainment area of Dotonbori. We stop at kombu (kelp) shops, miso producers, fishmongers, and street food stalls to dive into the flavors that define Osaka cuisine, with a particular focus on the savory fifth taste: umami. While Osaka is known as the "Kitchen of Japan," many outside the country are unaware of the colored history and diverse influences that have shaped its unique gastronomy. World War II destroyed much of Osaka, and the society changed significantly as well – but the spirit of the city remains intact in its markets, standing bars, and small independent restaurants.